Feversham Arms Hotel & Verbena Spa, Helmsley, North Yorkshire

Just off Helmsley's Market Place, and the A170 that leads from Thirsk to Scarborough, it's on a quietish road that leads up onto the moors. All of the town is within easy walking distance, yet it's away from the traffic and bustle. Be aware that the next-door church strikes the hours from early until late. The 12th-century Helmsley Castle is a two-minute walk, in its shadow is the beautiful, and peaceful, Hemsley Walled Garden restored by volunteers to its Victorian splendour.

By car: The Feversham Arms is 4 hours 30 mins from London and 2 hours from Manchester. There is free parking available at the hotel

By train: London Kings Cross to Thirsk takes 2 hours 20 mins. The hotel is a 25-minute taxi ride from the station. Book trains to Thirsk.

The modern country style is neither too chic nor too rustic but follows a familiar popular look of plaid carpets and stripped-wood floors, smudgy Farrow and Ball colours, tan leather sofas and wool-covered cushions. The spa area is sleeker, with plenty of glass, and throughout, striking modern art hangs on the walls.

The bar-lounge, with log fire and newspapers, has corners to hole up in or, for a bit more peace, there's the library room with, indeed, books! In summer, tables and terraces around the pool are inviting, though it can be busy, as can the spa and outdoor hot tub. Service is variable, although well-meaning.

• Bar
• Restaurant
• Terrace
• Outdoor pool
• Spa
• Pet-friendly
• Free parking
• Free Wi-Fi

The country-chic bedrooms offer a wide choice, from more cottagey (panelled walls, rich colours) rooms to the swankier Spa Suites, in a new-build wing overlooking the courtyard pool. Other courtyard rooms have beams, wood-burning stoves and patios. Most rooms have baths, as well as showers.

Room types: Standard Double, Traditional Double, Junior Suites, Deluxe Suites, Luxury Suites

Key amenities: bath with shower or walk-in shower, Temple Spa toiletries, bathrobes, slippers, TV, tea and coffee-making facilities, free Wi-Fi

Cooking is stylish without being faddy with a short-ish, set-price Modern European menu that might include starters of mackerel tartare with wasabi or ham hock terrine followed by beef cheek Provençale with gnocchi or cod with curried mussels. There's a decent cold breakfast buffet, and cooked-to-order dishes include Helmsley pork sausages and pancakes.

The Weathervane: 1 AA Rosette fine dining, local and foraged North Yorkshire produce, seasonal modern British dishes. Open every day for afternoon tea and dinner. A lounge menu is served noon-5pm. Two-course dinner £38, three courses £50.