The Talbot, Malton, North Yorkshire

Close to the centre of Malton, and near the Market Place, it sits on the main road into the town from the West that links with the A64 from York. All of the town is walkable, including the station, a brisk ten minutes. As the hotel sits on a slight rise, it has views from the back down to the River Derwent and beyond. The small local history museum is a few steps away, otherwise, several hours can be spent exploring the town's artisan shops including chocolatiers, bakers, craft breweries, and patisseries.

By car: the hotel is an hour from Leeds, 2 hours 40 mins from Birmingham and 4 hours 30 mins from London. There is free parking on-site.

By train: London Kings Cross to Malton (via York) takes 2 hours 25 mins. The hotel is a 5-minute walk from the station. Book trains to Malton.

The substantial limestone building, with its Georgian symmetry, has been coolly updated into a modern version of a coaching inn; solid, frills-free, comfortably well-worn with the odd flash of glamour. There are plain floors, green walls and chunky rustic furniture mixed with leather-topped chairs and velvet-covered sofas. The occasional splash of deep blue or burnt orange hints at glamour while idiosyncratic art works hang on walls.

There's plenty of space to hang out whether in the sitting room with its open fire, mix of sofas, eclectic art and glossy magazines, or in the split-level bar - with another fire - or on the terraces. The hotel organises food tours and tastings, or can book courses at the town's cookery school. Service is variable but generally well-meaning.

• Restaurant
• Bar
• Lounge
• Terrace
• Food tours
• Pet-friendly
• Free parking
• Free Wi-Fi

Bedrooms have a no-nonsense feel with sisal carpets, deep colours - blues and reds - and practical, often vintage or retro, furniture; perhaps an old pedestal table, button-back armchair or floral-shaded lamp. They're old-school cool, although top-floor rooms - with the best views - can seem plain.

Room types: Classic Double, Superior Double, Deluxe Double, Deluxe Four Poster, Deluxe Suites

Key amenities: ensuite bathroom with H2K of Harrogate toiletries, TV, tea and coffee facilities, free Wi-Fi

Serving Modern British food - robust, punchy and fuss-free - that makes you feel greedy, yet without the guilt. The menu makes good use of the surrounding rich farmland: local beef for home-made burgers, steaks, and chef's pie with gravy; or local game for smarter dishes such as venison with squash purée.

The restaurant: Yorkshire produce, modern British cuisine, seasonal dishes. Open every day for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. Mains from £15. Afternoon tea from £15 per person.