Hotel Review: 23 Mayfield Guesthouse, Edinburgh

Edinburgh is so compact that Mayfield Road, a stretch of substantial Victorian villas on a busy road, can feel almost suburban. But Newington, just south of the city centre, is only a 15-minute walk to the Old Town, with regular buses to the city centre and points beyond. Two great restaurants, Edinburgh Food Studio and Aizle are close by, and you can walk off the excess in Holyrood Park.

By car: around 1 hour from Glasgow, 2 hours 40 minutes from Newcastle and 4 hours from Manchester. Parking is available at the hotel.

By train: Glasgow Queens Street is around 50 minutes, Manchester Picadilly around 3 hours, and London Kings Cross around 4 hours 45 minutes. A taxi from Edinburgh Waverley station takes around eight minutes. Book trains to Edinburgh.

By plane: Edingburgh Airport (25-minute drive)

Real dedication, vision and a fair quantity of heritage paint went into creating this period charmer. The stained glass, rich colours, antique furnishings and open fires make it feel cosy, relaxed and quietly ready for romance. And unlike most guest houses, there's a handsome lounge that encourages you to linger.

Small enough to feel welcoming, everyone is endlessly helpful, whether arranging a city tour or recommending a restaurant. And of course there's the Club Room: darkly masculine with wing chairs and leather-bound books, a good selection of CDs, and an honesty bar. Outside there's a sunny sheltered garden and parking.

• Breakfast
• Honesty Bar
• Garden
• Family rooms
• Parking
• Free Wi-Fi

The scene-setting drama doesn't stop downstairs. Beds are four posters or half tester; if not, there will be gleaming panelling to go with the period furniture, whether balloon back chairs or empire sofas. Only the bathrooms feel (gratifyingly) modern, especially the rainfall showers.

Room types: Grand Jacobean, Grand Colonial, Premier Jacobean Four Poster, Premier Colonial Room, Grand Tudor, Deluxe Tudor

Key amenities: ensuite with Penhaligon toiletries, tea and coffee-making facilities, heated mirror

Breakfast is the stuff of dreams, made from the best Scottish ingredients and extra imagination. For example, the porridge is steamed, then served with brown sugar, butter, whisky and flambéed fruit. Or there's a full Scottish Breakfast (with homemade clootie dumplings). Additionally, there's smoked haddock, brioche French Toast, Belgian waffles, or a delicious daily special.

Breakfast: 5 AA Egg Cup Awards for their breakfast. Traditional Scottish fare, vegetarian options.