Hotel Review: Virgin Hotels Edinburgh

This is the heart of the Old Town at the top of Victoria Street, a five minute walk from Edinburgh Castle, two minutes from Greyfriars Kirk or St Giles Cathedral, and there's the Grassmarket just down the hill. Head down the Mound for Princes Street, the New Town and Stockbridge.

By car: over an hour from Glasgow, 2 hours 40 minutes from Newcastle and 4 hours 45 minutes from Manchester. Paid parking available nearby.

By train: 4 hours 30 minutes from London. The hotel is an eight-minute walk from Edinburgh Waverley. Book trains to Edinburgh.

It's an historic building with a stunningly restored glass dome, but at 5pm the lights go down and the music pumps up. From the light-tunnel entrance to the Victorian pine panelling in the Commons Club bar to the surreal wall and ceiling art in Eve, it's all about the art of surprise.

The staff look relaxed but be assured you'll want for nothing as the service is impeccable. Naturally there's laundry service and 24-hour room service, and an internet equipped gym open 24-hours for the jet-lagged/over-indulgent. The small but charming coffee area beside the library can help with that too.

• Restaurant
• Bar
• Fitness centre
• Family-friendly
• Pet-friendly
• Free Wi-Fi

Slip into your 'chamber', split into a sleeping area and a washing, dressing and make-up area, decorated in every shade of biscuit, except the Red Smeg mini-fridge. The look is clean, simple, expensive - think curves, cabinetry and comfort.

Room types: Chamber, Grand Chamber rooms; Grand Chamber, Family, Kasbah Tamadot, Eve, King, Edward's suites; Sir Richard's Flat

Key amenities: ensuite bathroom with toiletries, tea and coffee facilities, living area, SMEG fridge, minibar, TV, free Wi-Fi

It's low-key glamour and cocktails in the Commons Club bar, then down to the restaurant for wildly generous portions. Eve offers a hipster breakfast: fluffy 'custard cream' pancakes, smashed avocado (of course), or mango and pineapple brûlée, as well as amped-up fast food.

Commons Club: contemporary Scottish cuisine, open daily for dinner, 5-9:30pm (bar hours vary).

Eve: upscale dining, serving brunch and small plates by day. Creative cocktails and live music by night. All-day menu, open daily from 7am.